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It’s nice to have an old stand-by; a place you know you can rely on for good, unfussy food whenever required. Cypriana on Lark Lane is one of those places – an authentic Greek taverna that’s a bit worn around the edges but always presents a friendly welcome and homely atmosphere.

The menu is full of simple Greek Cypriot dishes – lots of halloumi, squid, metballs, stuffed vine leaves and the like. We frequently have halloumi and lountza as a starter; a simple dish of fried smoked pork with some grilled cheese.

With a twist of lemon and a couple of mouthfulls of the soft, white bread presented with starters, it’s very tasty and rather comforting. The main menu is packed with dishes and plenty of choice for veggies, with lots of meat and seafood available too.

But we love Cypriana for is Lamb Kleftiko, a melt-in-the-mouth, fall-off-the-bone treat that comes with a side salad, boiled rice and chunky home-made chips.

It’s not complicated, but it’s delicious, filling and generous for the money. We ate the food with pints of lager and gin and tonics, which were reasonably priced at less than three quid.

Cypriana is not about finesse, it’s very simple. The service is attentive and the atmosphere is one of Cypriana’s strengths. More than anything else it feels like going to a friend’s house for dinner.

That may not appeal to everyone, but as a simple pleasure it’s a reliable, relaxed and has the worn comfort of a pair of old shoes.