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One of two fine dining establishments in the Georgian Quarter, the London Carriage Works arrived with ambitions of a Michelin star. It’s yet to be awarded, but the restaurant is highlighted in various good food guides and certainly looks the part, with its floor-to-ceiling glass shards separating buzzy bar from cool dining room.

The restaurant serves modern international dishes and boasts seasonal produce from local providers, including Wirral’s excellent Claremont Farm. Head Chef Paul Askew is tipped for big things and is instrumental in Liverpool’s efforts to put itself back on the food map.

Its menu, overseen by Askew, is big on regional specialities (Wirral asparagus, Angelsea sea salt, Goosnargh poultry) and serves them with minimum fuss (a jus here, a truffle scented sauce here). It’s struggled with consistency, to be honest, but when it’s on its game, London Carriage Works is still one of the most enjoyable places to spend an evening. Especially if you plump for the gamey mains, such as the excellent Loin of venison.

The cheese selection is outstanding, too. As is the Port and extensive wine list. LCW is great for lunches, too (and they do a mean Afternoon tea with homebaked cakes).

Dining a la carte is an indulgence – though some dishes are surprisingly cheap – but the Carriage Works also provides a Prix Fixe menu that offers very good value.